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The New York Times
No More Slingshots at Goliath

If you want to drop a conversational bomb among a collection of wine-lovers, simply say the words, "California chardonnay." Boom! Any hope of solidarity will be shattered as the group divides into fangs-bared pro and oh-so-con factions. For those inclined to be provocateurs, it's actually kind of fun to rev up a chardonnay dispute. But the truth is, chardonnay is no longer something to argue about. It is simply a fact to be accepted. Chardonnay is America's most popular and important white wine.

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