In this in-depth Bloomberg Pursuits article, wine writer Elin McCoy explores how Japanese and Japanese American winemakers are bringing a distinctive sensibility to the world of Pinot Noir. Akiko Freeman, co-founder and winemaker at Freeman Winery, is featured prominently among this emerging group. McCoy describes how Akiko’s early exposure to kodo—the traditional Japanese art of appreciating incense—influences her emphasis on aroma, nuance, and subtlety in winemaking.

The article also introduces readers to Akiko’s associate winemaker, Eiji Akaboshi, whose Japanese heritage and family history tie directly to California’s early wine history. Together, they craft elegant wines that reflect both place and philosophy. McCoy singles out the 2021 Yu-Ki Estate Pinot Noir as a prime example, noting its bright fruit character and layers of mushroom, earth, and savory depth—qualities that make it Akiko’s favorite pairing with Japanese cuisine.

I’ve also been very happy with several other California pinot noir makers, including Failla Hirsch Vineyard, Freeman, Williams Selyem, and Morlet Family, all producing fine examples of what the varietal should be -- a medium bodied, velvety wine with flower and bright fruit flavors.