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A miraculous encounter with California wine: Two Japanese bring a breath of fresh air cover
The NIkkei Magazine
A miraculous encounter with California wine: Two Japanese bring a breath of fresh air

A similar sensibility supported the decision to choose a successor.

Akiko's father, a wine lover, expected her to become a drinking buddy in the future, and she received a "special education" from a young age, including being forced to smell wine. Her grandmother was also an expert in the art of incense, and she learned how to distinguish subtle aromas. Akaboshi, on the other hand, says, "From a young age, my greatest joy was experiencing the world through my taste and smell."

About 10 years before joining Freeman, Akaboshi attended a gathering of Japanese wine professionals held at the winery, where he tried Akiko's wine for the first time. He recalls his impression: "It was so delicious, I remember getting goosebumps." It would later become clear that those "goosebumps" were more than just amazement.

Freeman's flagship wine, "Akiko's Cuvée," is created each year by Akiko and several others tasting many wines made from grapes from different vineyards and plots, narrowing it down to around 10 different blends and blending them together. At this point, everyone tries their own blends, and the blend ratio of the one they all agree is adopted. Until 2022, Akiko's blends had beaten out the others every year and been used in the final product.

"However, in 2023, for the first time, a recipe other than mine was the best," says Akiko. What's more, she even mistakenly thought Akaboshi's blend was her own, demonstrating just how similar their sensibilities were. This experience helped drive Akiko's decision to choose her successor.

"I simply want good things to be preserved for the future. Rather than adding new value, I intend to hone the good things we have now." Akaboshi, who has been entrusted with Freeman's future, is unassuming.

Will the Japanese aesthetic of "Koufu" (light wind) blow through?

Freeman currently provides 70% of its grapes from its two owned vineyards, "Gloria" and "Yuki." With the recent harvest from a newly acquired vineyard, the proportion of grapes sourced from its own vineyards will increase to 95%, allowing for a clearer character and direction. Akiko revealed that this third vineyard will likely be named "Koufu."

Freeman has a product called "Koufu Riesling," made with grapes sourced from outside, and Ken seems to be particularly fond of the word "Koufu." "Koufu" refers to the wind that blows across the shining vegetation after rain. This word evokes the Japanese aesthetic and is also relevant to the flavor of Freeman's wines.

 


カリフォルニアワインで奇跡の出会い 日本人2人が新風 cover
The NIkkei Magazine
カリフォルニアワインで奇跡の出会い 日本人2人が新風

感性が酷似、後継者選びの決断を後押し

アキコさんはワイン好きだった父から「将来、娘が飲み仲間になるように」と見込まれ、幼少時からワインの香りを嗅がされるなど「英才教育」を受けた。また、祖母が香道に通じる人で、微妙な香りの違いを嗅ぎ分ける術(すべ)を学んだという。一方の赤星さんは「子供の頃から味覚と嗅覚で世界を感じるのが一番の喜びでした」と語る。

そんな赤星さんはフリーマンに参画することになる10年ほど前、同ワイナリーで開かれた日本人ワイン関係者の集まりに参加することがあり、その際にアキコさんのワインを初めて試していた。この時の印象を「おいしくて、鳥肌が立ったのを覚えています」と振り返る。その「鳥肌」がただの驚嘆でなかったことが後に明らかになる。

フリーマンのフラッグシップである「アキコズ・キュヴェ」は毎年、別々の畑や区画のブドウを醸造した多くのワインをアキコさんを含め数人で試飲し、10種類程度に絞り込んだものをブレンドして造られる。この時、各自がブレンドしたものを全員が試し、一同が最良と認めたもののブレンド比率を採用するのだが、2022年までは毎年アキコさんによるブレンドが他のブレンドに競り勝って商品になってきた。

「ところが2023年のブレンドの際、初めて私以外の人のレシピがベストになったのです」とアキコさん。おまけに彼女は赤星さんがブレンドしたそのワインを自分のレシピだと勘違いしたという。それほどまでに2人の感性は酷似していたのだ。この時の経験がアキコさんの後継者選びの決断を後押しする。

「良いものは将来に残ってほしいと純粋に思います。新しい価値を付け加えるのではなく、今ある良いものを磨いていくつもりです」。フリーマンの将来を託された赤星さんに気負いはない。

日本人の美意識「光風」が吹き渡るか

フリーマンでは現在、2つの自社畑「グロリア」「ユーキ」での収穫で原料ブドウの70%を賄っているが、最近、新たに入手した畑からの収穫が得られるようになると自社原料比率は95%になり、より明確なキャラクターや方向性を打ち出せるようになる。この第3の畑の名前は「光風」になりそうだとアキコさんが明かす。

フリーマンには、外部から原料ブドウを調達して造った「光風リースリング」という商品があり、光風という言葉をケンさんがいたく気に入っているそうだ。光風とは雨上がりに光を帯びた草木を吹き渡る風のこと。日本人の美意識を感じさせ、またフリーマンのワインの味わいに通じる言葉だと思う。


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