2009 Freeman Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($44, 14.1% alcohol): Ken and Akiko Freeman and winemaker Ed Kurtzman again show their ability to finesse the fruit from around the appellation - much from the Rayhill and Sexton Road sites near Sebastopol's Bodega Highway, but from Occidental and Petaluma as well. This straight Sonoma Coast bottle again slightly edges the stylish, green-peppercorn-tinged 2009 Akiko's Cuvee ($54, 14.2 percent) with its cool, saline edge. Aromas of damp forest (think redwoods after a rain), bright raspberry and duskier bayberry flavors make for a finessed, layered package.

2008 Freeman Winery Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($44): Winemaker Ed Kurtzman scored with this blend bottling from the Rayhill, Guidici and Sexton vineyards, define by a racy, minty huckleberry profile. Always focused, with warm spice echoes on the finish and a surprising mineral-edged tannic backbone.